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Unit 2a - Imitation-Differentiation Perspective
Learning unit 2 of this course will focus on sociological theories that strive to explain the fashion phenomenon. The first part of this learning unit is on the theoretical perspective commonly referred to as the Imitation-Differentiation perspective (sometimes referred to as the "trickle-down" theory of fashion). Before continuing with this section of the course, you should complete the readings and questions for unit 1a and 1b, Overview of Fashion Theory. Throughout this term, we will examine a number of theoretical perspectives related to fashion. These will be presented in a somewhat chronological order as well as from a discipline-based orientation. Below is a listing of some of this early literature on fashion:
If you ever have a chance to read these early works, I would highly recommend it as many of the ideas and perspectives have shaped how we view fashion products and fashion processes today. Indeed, these early writings form the foundations for current theoretical orientations. The first of the theoretical perspectives to be examined has its basis in the area of sociology and include some of the earliest writings about fashion. The common feature of the work in this area is that aspects of the social system are believed to be the primary reason behind the fashion process. That is, fashion is studied as it relates to social class, social groups, social stratification, social change, socialization processes, social control, and collective behavior. I have divided the sociological perspectives associated with fashion theory into three areas: 1) imitation-differentiation perspective, 2) collective selection perspective, and 3) fashion leadership in a multicultural society. We will examine each of these separately. Imitation-Differentiation PerspectiveIn 1904, the article "Fashion" by Georg Simmel was first published in International Quarterly. It was later reprinted in 1957 in the American Journal of Sociology. Simmel was a German sociologist and philosopher who lived from 1858-1918. Simmel was interested in the meaning of social forms and their usefulness to society. He also applied psychological reasoning to an understanding of sociology. As you read this article, it is important for you to interpret the writings in light of when it was written. Think about the fashion "industry" in the early 1900s. French couture designers of the time included Jacque Doucet, Madame Paquin, the Callot sisters, and Jean and Gaston Worth. Art Nouveau, as an art movement, was influencing textile design, apparel design, and jewelry design. In the U.S., the "Gibson girl" look was popular for women; men's fashions were influenced by the Industrial Revolution of the late 1800s. A mass-produced clothing industry was in its infancy. Although many fashions were available ready-made, production and distribution of ready-to-wear were limited. Most wealthy individuals had their apparel made for them rather than buying clothing "off-the-rack". Thus, the upper class had important influence on the fashions of the day. According to Simmel, the upper classes introduced fashions that were then copied by the middles and lower classes. Wanting to differentiate themselves from the lower classes, the upper classes then initiated changes in fashions and the cycle continued. Thus, according to this perspective, class competition is the basis for fashion change. Although this theory has had historical support, modern theorists have discounted many of the ideas that Simmel writes about. However, McCracken, in his article outlines why and how Simmel's work can be applied to today's views of fashion -- particularly regarding the ideas of imitation and differentiation.
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